In 1851 the army changed the standard shoe from a taller shoe to the shorter bootee that was issued until the Indian War pattern supersedes them. The pattern of 1851 bootees first issued was a sewn sole shoe with 4 holes in each side of the quarter and 2 holes in the vamp. When the great need of shoes for all the volunteers in the begging of the civil war the army and states began to purchase the pegged bootee but these purchased at a lower price. Pegging was away of attaching the sole with little wooden sticks called pegs.
These shoes were made on the new style of having right and left pattern lasts. Although wartime production shows that straight lasts (no right or left) were purchased and issued to the troops in the field. The last is the form on which the shoe is formed and is what determines the size of the shoe. The men's shoes of the time were made from rough (flesh) out leather that was blackened and finished and is also called black on the flesh. Information from an 1860's book lists that if the leather was finished on the smooth side (grain) it was for women's shoes. There was not a dress brogan. This is a reenactorism and no basis in history. The shiny shoes seen in the pictures are those that have been polished, and this makes better sense since a scratch in the rough side can be repaired to the point it cannot be seen. On the other hand a scratch on the smooth side (grain) cannot be repaired and will always be present.
These are period definitions of bootee and brogan.
Bootee: A boot without a top, or a shoe made like a boot without a leg. I have also seen it defined as a not a tall as a boot but taller than shoe. More or Less it is a shoe that comes above the ankle. The total of both sewn and pegged bootees purchased by the Quartermaster dept. was 8,281,636, and this does not include state contracts.
Brogans: the word is used in the United States, to distinguish a heavy, coarse shoe, between a boot and a shoe. As you will see these are a coarse shoe and brogans are noted when purchased noting the different type of shoe. The amount of these purchased by the Quartermaster dept. was 155,580. As you will see the number was way down from either style of the bootee, showing difference between qualities of the two types of footwear
Clout-Nails: short nails with large heads for the soles of strong shoes. Also called hob nails.
We have handcrafted shoes in our work shops here at C & D Jarnagin for over 30 years. Our shoes are hand made of oak tanned American leather. Our shoes are made by time proven patterns and sewn with linen thread. Our footwear has delivered countless miles of satisfactory service. Judging from the shoes received by our repair service, nothing holds up like our shoes.
Leather
Preservation Please follow this link for more information on the care and
feed of leather.
These are a copy of an original pair of boots in our collection and we have included all the details from the original boot. There are internal stiffeners which keep the boot from settling down in the instep over time. These come with half and small heels. These are not infantry boots but boots for mounted troops. The period finish is included in the price of the boots. This finish will allow the boots too last for a much longer time. These only come in rough out like the original and are made here in Corinth.
Here are the picture of the reproduction boots and below them is pictures of the original boots.
We do re-sole brogans that only manufactured by our company. We can not always tell if the shoes can be repaired until after we examine them. Please include a phone number and e-mail address so that we can contact you if there is a problem or they can not be re-soled. The general wait time is 4 to 6 weeks including shipping time to and from.
#RSB100 Resoleing Brogans $80.50
Call or contact us for information about repairing your old brogans. Please allow at least 4 weeks to get them resoled. Please include a phone number and e-mail address, if you have one, in order for us to contact you if there are any problems with the shoe you sent in.
Clean up -If you send your shoes in dirty. $9.00
Hand Stitch Upper -If any of the stitches on the upper are torn loose.
$11.00
Shipping - For Resoled Brogans
$16.95
This is the standard version of the Jefferson bootee adopted in 1851. These were made with a sewn sole and came slightly above the ankle with 4 lace hole in each side of the quarter and 2 in the vamp(on the tounge of the shoe). During the Civil War this style was the most common shoe produced with war time total being 6,082,297 being purchased by the U.S. Quartermaster Dept. I have also found a Marine contact for this type of shoe.
This bootee pattern was taken from the article in Company of Military Historians, Summer 1995. They are made on left and right lasts of oak tanned leather (rough side out) dyed black in color. After some wear the upper will take on the classic shovel toe appearance. Laces are provided. The soles are made of one layer of prime sole leather. The soles are welted and sewn. Heels have hand set square nails. This is the standard shoe of the Army and Marines before the civil war broke out. Even after the war the Quartermaster department still contacted for more of these shoes than the pegged version.
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$14.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 and above |
$14.00 |
#100SM |
Add for makeing shoe with the smooth side of the leather on the outside |
$30.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$18.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish |
$45.00 |
The pegged version of the standard bootee was a war time necessary exception to the standard shoe due to the fact so many shoe were need for the troops in the field. These were purchased at a lower price than the sewn sole bootee. The total number of these shoe purchased during the war by the U.S. quartermaster was 2,199,339. That is a lot of shoes but nowhere near the total of the sewn sole style.
These were made with a pegged sole and came slightly above the ankle with 4 lace hole in each side of the quarter and 2 in the vamp(on the tounge of the shoe). We manufacture an especially heavy duty model. Jefferson bootee (brogans) are made on left and right lasts of oak tanned leather (rough side out) dyed black in color. After some wear the upper will take on the classic shovel toe appearance. Laces are provided. The soles are made of two layers of prime sole leather. The soles are pegged with wooden pegs as originals.
Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.
Brogan leather may be wet and dried indefinitely so long as heat is NOT applied. The leather will soften for great comfort if you apply shoe oil. Keep your shoes clean and apply shoe oil on a regular basis. Shoe blacking may be used as well. Keep shoe trees in these and you will double the life of your brogans.
Sizes Available: Men's Size 7D through 14D, 1/2 sizes available from 7 1/2 - 12 1/2, or 3E sizes from 8EEE through 12 1/2EEE
#100 US M1851 Jefferson Brogans $145.00
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$14.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 Straight last |
$14.00 |
#100SM |
Add for makeing shoe with the smooth side of the leather on the outside |
$30.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$18.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish |
$45.00 |
(You will need to allow approx. 6 weeks for delivery on any smoothout shoe.)
Corinth Shoes
These shoes were not made here in Corinth but rather dug out of a well. These came out of a well near where Lowe's is now located in Corinth. In 1862 there was a Cavalry camp located in that area and these shoe belonged to one of the Federal troops that occupied Corinth after the capture in May of 1862.
These are a sewn sole bootee on the straight last pattern. This was not uncommon to see the old straight last (no right or left) used in the early part of the war where the need for shoes was so great. There was also another style found around Vicksburg that was made on a straight last. We are only making these in the straight last pattern so the only width offered will a "D".
Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.
Available in Sizes: 7 through 12, Half Sizes Available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2
#126 Sewn Sole Corinth Shoes $160.00
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$14.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 and above |
$14.00 |
#100SM |
Add for makeing shoe with the smooth side of the leather on the outside |
$30.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$18.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish |
$45.00 |
Crown soap- 4oz of soap in a tin container $6.95
We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.
#PW124 Preservation Wax $12.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $15.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#113 Neatsfoot Oil 8 fl. oz. 100% pure $6.95
(This is not a stock shoe. Each pair will be made to order. Allow at least 30 days for delivery)
This shoe is useful from the 1830's through the Civil War period (Confederate Service as well as civilian impressions). This is
a common shoe which meant there was no right or left to the shoe. This was an inexpensive shoe sold to common people hense that is where the term common shoe comes from. Our shoe is patterned from an original in our collection which is like the one found in front of Fort Jackson, Georgia.
The
men's shoes of the time were made from rough (flesh) out leather that was
blackened and finished and is also called black on the flesh or waxed leather. Information
from an 1860's book lists that if the leather was finished on the smooth side
(grain) it was for women's shoes. It
was noted in period writings that Confederate troops were not charged for Russet
shoes (or slave shoes) because they were so disliked. Even the slaves would blacken them with
grease and soot so not to have the russet color. Negro brogans are listed in US purchases and with the price being cheaper they may have also been russet in color.
These brogans are available in Black (rough out) and Russet (rough out only). There are no "lefts" and "rights" to these shoes. They are made on straight lasts. ( A "last" is a block or form over which a shoe upper is drawn and shaped.) Laces are provided. Since they are made of the finest natural leather they quickly form to whichever foot you regularly wear them. Soles are pegged as original.
Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.
Sizes Available: 7D through 12D and 1/2 sizes available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2.
(the reason russet are more expensive due to the fact they must run separately in order to keep them clean)
We can not make wide sizes on a straight Last. We can make the upper like this bootee but it will need to be on the Right and Left pattern in order to get a wider width.
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$14.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 Straight last |
$14.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$18.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish (black only) |
$45.00 |
D. M. Winters Shoes
These shoes are copied from originals in our collection. D. M. Winters was a shoe maker in Alabama as early as the 1840's. These are straight last shoes in black rough out leather with a double row of pegging as the original shoes. They have a separate tongue that is stitched to the upper.
We have copied the stamps found in the sole of the original, which includes Winters own stamp as well as a rare sole tannery stamp. The sole tannery stamp is found in the heel of the shoe.
Tannery stamps are listed in period writings about tanneries but actually finding a stamp is very rare. This is the way that tanneries identified their products. At a time when cheap inferior leather was being sold as being from a reputable tannery; stamps were the only way to insure the seller that they were receiving was what they thought they were buying.
The tannery stamp is "Eaton, N.Y.", Tannery. I have no information to tell whether it was in Eaton, New York or if it was owned by someone named Eaton and just happened to be in New York.
The use of leather from New York or Pennsylvania would have not been that uncommon in the south. Since the south’s leather tanning ability according to the 1860 census was only 6.5% of all GNP of all leather produced in the US at that time, where as New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts accounted for all most 70% of all leather tanned in the US.
Available in Sizes: 7 through 12, Half Sizes Available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2
#123 DM Winters Shoes $190.00
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$14.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 Straight last |
$14.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$18.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish (black only) |
$45.00 |
We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.
#PW124 Preservation Wax $12.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $15.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#113 Neatsfoot Oil 8 fl. oz. 100% pure $6.95
This shoe is copied from the original recovered from the Rose's barn in Gettysburg, PA. The barn is supposed to be a central location where the dead and dying were taken. The pattern is thought to be a servant shoe. One of the shoes has the remains a Confederate note inside the shoe. The note is a Virginia state one-dollar note from 1862. A copy of this note will be provided with each pair of shoes we send out. This is a straight last shoe and the upper is made from thin leather and backed with cloth, with a leather welt covering the edges. These were not constructed for heavy marching and campaigning but were pressed into service any way. This shoes would work nicely for a ladies shoe.
Follow this link to see pictures of the original
shoes.
Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.
Sizes Available: Men's Size 7D through 12D and 1/2 sizes available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2.
We can not make wide sizes on a straight Last. We can make the upper like this bootee but it will need to be on the Right and Left pattern in order to get a wider width.
We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.
#PW124 Preservation Wax $12.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $15.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#113 Neatsfoot Oil 8 fl. oz. 100% pure $6.95
These are a gray wool sock with cotton toe and heel.
One size fits most.
Crown soap- 4oz of soap in a tin container $6.95
We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.
#PW124 Preservation Wax $12.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $15.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#113 Neatsfoot Oil 8 fl. oz. 100% pure $6.95
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